If that is not the case, take another longer exposure, to move those dark shadow areas further right on the histogram.
In your lightest image, the dark shadows should be shifted into the midtone section of the histogram. Check your histograms right after you take your bracketed shots, before you move your camera.Shoot one photograph for highlights, one for midtones, and one for shadows. Usually +/- 2 stops is sufficient. Use at least three bracketed photos, to get optimum results. When shooting images meant for HDR processing keep the subject matter and lighting simple at first, as you find your way.I have found it very handy to have available-an excellent resource. Also download a User Manual onto your desktop. Then when you decide you want greater depth, you can watch other tutorials as well. It takes about 4 minutes and will give you a feel for the software. I suggest initially watching the introductory tutorial. Photomatix has several tutorials on its site.You can download a free trial if you don’t already have the software installed on your computer. The application is very intuitive to work with. Load in bracketed images, click presets and move adjustment sliders. The best way to start with Photomatix, if you are interested in developing your magic, is to just jump right in and start using it. I consider myself a newbie–I still have lots of experimenting to do, but that is the fun of it. It is easy and painless to use, and provides different styles and presets to draw upon, expanding my imagination. Wanting to improve upon my magic, I recently found my way to Photomatix Pro, an HDR processing software. A photograph in which I was able to retain details in the shadows and not blow out highlights. I never imagined that one day I would be blending together bracketed images to create a single photograph with an extended dynamic range. To a one-time film photographer like me, it’s magic. HDR photography is a gift of the digital age.
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